Now here I am, all these years later, looking to upgrade the style in my living room, and what do I decide to do? Buy some inexpensive, white furniture and add some paint. Somethings never change! Not only do I still like to save money any time I can, it’s usually easier for me to get the exact look I want by DIYing.

For my living room project, I chose six Billy Bookcases – the most basic of white laminate bookshelves. But to get the high-end, built-in look I wanted, I decided to paint the back panel of the bookshelves to match our dark gray wall color and to add Ikea Oxberg glass doors in front of the shelves.

Fortunately, this time around I’m a lot more knowledgeable, and I know how to paint Ikea laminate furniture the right way! Turns out it’s actually not hard at all as long as you don’t skip one very important step!

This post is sponsored by my friends at Rust-Oleum, whose products make almost all of my DIY projects look better! This post also contains affiliate links. If you purchase something I recommend, you’ll pay the same price, but I may receive a small commission.

Always Prime Before Painting Laminate Furniture

The first thing you need to know is that, without proper preparation, paint won’t adhere to a laminate surface. Some paints will just bead up on the surface of the laminate. Other paints will go on with a splotchy, uneven finish and the first coat will begin peeling off as soon as you try to paint a second coat.

The good news is that painting over Ikea laminate furniture – or any laminate furniture – is as simple as a coat of right primer!

Choosing the Right Primer for Your Laminate Furniture Project

In order to choose the right primer for your furniture painting project, it’s important to also keep in the mind the kind of paint you’ll be applying over the primer.

Since I wanted the back panel of my bookshelves to match the wall color behind the furniture, I wanted to use the exact same latex paint that we used on the wall. Paired with the right primer, latex paint (which is water-based) is a great option for painting laminate furniture because it provides a durable, smooth finish.

Zinsser Primer for Laminate Furniture

When choosing primer for my laminate bookshelf project, I needed a primer that would stick to laminate and that would accept latex paint over it. I researched each of these three Zinsser primer options to determine which would be best for the job:

• Zinsser BIN Primer – This primer is shallac based and sticks to all surfaces – including laminate furniture – without sanding. This primer goes on in smooth, thin coats. It drys very quickly, and it works with any top coat, including water-based latex paint.
• Zinsser Bull’s Eye 1-2-3 Primer – This primer is great for lots of projects, and it is my first choice for most wall priming projects {as I talk about in this post}. However, like latex paint, 1-2-3 Primer is water-based, so it won’t adhere as well to laminate furniture without first sanding, and a longer cure time is also recommended when painting laminate.
• Zinsser Cover-Stain Primer – This is an oil-based primer. Oil-based primers provide great adhesion. I’ve always been taught that, as a general rule of thumb, you shouldn’t paint latex over oil-based paint or primer. However, this Cover-Stain Primer accepts both oil-based and water-based topcoats.

After researching these three primer options, I narrowed it down to the BIN and Cover-Stain Primers for my bookshelves, since both would provide good adhesion to the laminate surface. Further research indicated that the oil-based Cover-Stain primer is much thicker and might require some light-sanding before painting the top coat in order to get a really smooth finish.

The Best Primer for Laminate Furniture

Since I’m all about making projects as simple as possible, the shellac-based BIN Primer was the winner for my project. It provided the best combination of good adhesion, quick dry-time, and the ability to paint latex over it with no sanding needed.

How to Paint Ikea Laminate Furniture in Two Easy Steps

Once you’ve picked the best primer for your project, painting Ikea laminate furniture is a simple two step process that can easily be completed in an afternoon!

SUPPLY LIST

• Zinsser BIN Primer
• Latex Paint (or other top coat paint)
• Paint Tray
• Paint Tray Liners
• 6″ Foam Rollers
• Mini Roller Frames
• Drop Cloth or Cardboard

STEP 1: How to Prime Laminate Furniture

For my bookshelf project, I used 1 quart of Zinsser BIN Primer to prime the back panel of 3 wide Ikea Billy Bookcases, 3 narrow Billy Bookcases, as well as 12 total Billy Bookcase height extension units.

We began by unboxing all of the bookshelves and separating the back panels from the other pieces. After unboxing and sorting the various pieces, we flattened several of the cardboard boxes to cover the floor and kitchen table instead of using a drop cloth.

Once we had all the back panels laid out, we were ready to start priming. We poured the Zinsser BIN Primer into a paint tray.

The BIN Primer is very thin. We found that using a foam roller gave us a very smooth, even coat while also minimizing splattering. With two of us working together, it took us about 25 minutes to prime all of the bookshelf sections.

This primer dries very quickly, so later that same afternoon, we were ready to start painting.

STEP 2: How to Paint Laminate Furniture

After allowing the primer to dry, we were ready to start applying the first coat of paint to these Billy Bookcase sections. We used the leftover latex paint from painting the dark gray walls in our living room.

The latex paint went on very nicely, and we could immediately see that it was adhering well to the coat of BIN Primer. I always recommend applying two thin coats of paint, rather than one thick coat. This will give you the smoothest, most even finish.

Once again, with both of us working together, it took less than half an hour for us to paint each of the bookshelf sections dark gray. A few hours later, we applied our second coat of paint to complete the job. You can see that, thanks to the base coat of primer, the paint looks great!

Ikea Billy Bookcase Makeover

The following day, after allowing plenty of time for the latex paint to cure, we were ready to start assembling the Billy Bookcases. The painted back panels went in last.

With the bookshelves fully assembled, you can see how the dark back panels, combined with the glass doors, elevate the style of these inexpensive Ikea bookcases and give them a more built-in look wrapping the corner of our living room.

I had a lot of fun filling the shelves with our books and lots of souvenirs from our travels.

I really love the contrast of the dark gray against the white! Adding a little paint to the back of the shelves is a simple Ikea Billy Bookcase hack with a big impact! Now that you know how easy it is to paint Ikea laminate furniture with the right primer, would you give this look a try?

FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS ABOUT PAINTING LAMINATE FURNITURE

Q: Do you need to sand laminate furniture before painting?

A: You’ll find some people who recommend that you sand laminate furniture before painting. The idea of sanding to scuff up the surface to give it a little bit of grit for the paint to stick to, but this won’t yield the best results.

Laminate finishes are very thin, and you can easily sand through to the engineered wood below. If you do sand, you need to do so lightly by hand – don’t use an electric sander. And even if you do sand lightly, you’ll still use primer in order to ensure the paint will adhere properly.

Using the Zinsser BIN Primer that I recommend above, you can paint laminate furniture without sanding, saving you the extra time and effort! Don’t create more work for yourself!

Q: Is there any way to paint laminate furniture without sanding or priming?

A: Like most rules, there’s always an exception, so YES, you can paint laminate furniture without sanding or priming IF you use the right kind of paint. You can skip the primer if you are painting laminate furniture with chalk paint. I’ve had good luck using Rust-Oleum Chalked on several furniture projects, and it comes in about 25 color options and has an ultra matte finish.

I opted not to use chalk paint on my bookshelf project, because I wanted to use the exact same color paint as our walls. But if you’re interested in trying chalk paint for your laminate furniture project, see how I used Rust-Oleum Chalked to turn a laminate printer stand into a stylish bar cart with no sanding or priming. I’ve also got tips for painting an Ikea dresser with chalk paint.

Q: Can you stain laminate furniture?

A: It’s important to understand the difference between laminate furniture and wood veneer. Laminate is a man-made, plastic-like finish. Laminate can NOT be stained. Wood veneer furniture, on the other hand, has a thin layer of real wood that is bonded to a less expensive surface (like MDF of particle board).

Because wood veneer does have a layer of real wood, it can be sanded and stained. However the veneer is usually very thin – often an 1/8th inch or less – be very careful not to sand too aggressively, and always sand with the grain of the wood.

Q: I’m painting something different. How do I know if I need to use primer?

A: This is a great question, and one I get asked a lot. Primer can make your paint projects easier and provide better finished results. Primers make painting easier by promoting topcoat adhesion, providing better coverage, blocking stains, blocking odors, and more. I wrote a post titled When and Why to Prime Before Painting that should tell you everything you need to know.

The post How to Paint Laminate Furniture the Right Way appeared first on Blue i Style.

Instead of making a list of the “best gray paint colors,” I’ve got some tried and true tips to help you pick the right gray paint for YOUR room!

First, it’s important to understand why it’s so hard to pick gray paint.

A trip to the paint store will lead you to a wide array of swatches with “gray” in the name – but when you start to compare them side by side, it may seem like you’re eyes are playing tricks on you because soon none of them look gray at all!

Understanding Paint Undertones, and Why It Matters

Look Down the Color Card to Find the Undertones

Don’t Look at Paint Swatches in Isolation

Understanding How Light Affects Paint Colors

Natural Light Is Impacted By the Direction of Your Windows

• North-Facing Windows: Rooms with primarily north-facing windows will get lots of cool, blueish light consistently throughout the day. North-facing rooms typically call for paint with warmer hues to help balance out the cool, shadowy light. Avoid gray paints with cool undertones in spaces with northern exposures. The cool northern light will make gray paint with blue undertones look very blue.
• South Facing Windows: Rooms with south facing windows will get the most direct, high-in-the-sky light throughout the day. If you are lucky enough to have lots of south facing windows, it makes picking paint colors a bit easier because this light works well with both warm and cool tones.
• East Facing Windows: Rooms with east facing windows will get lots of warm, yellow light in the mornings as the sun rises in the sky, and then in the afternoon, as the sun moves west, the light through these windows will be much cooler (bluer).
• West Facing Windows: Rooms with west facing windows will get minimal, shadowy light throughout the morning, and will then be bathed in warm, yellow light in the afternoons as the sun moves lower in the sky.
• How to Strike a Balance in East and West Facing Rooms: As a general rule, gray paints with warm undertones typically look best in east-facing rooms during the afternoon and evening hours, and in west facing rooms, cool toned paints can help balance out the very warm late-day light. But in either of these scenarios, you’ll have the opposite light in the morning. If the room is used all through the day, a gray paint with less dramatic undertones will be the most versatile choice for a neutral appearance from morning to night. 

Light Bulb Color Temperature Also Affects Paint Colors

• Soft White / Warm White Light Bulbs (2000K-3000K) – The light produced by these bulbs ranges from orange to yellow-white in appearance. These bulbs will accentuate warm undertones, while muting cool undertones. A “greige” paint that straddles the line between gray and beige will lean much more beige in this warm-toned lighting.
• Bright White / Cool White (3100K-4500K) – These light bulbs produce a more neutral light, with light bulbs around 3500K being the most neutral. As the color temperature starts to approach 4000K or higher, light bulbs will have a slightly blue tint that will begin accentuating the cool undertones in gray paints.
• Daylight (5000K-6500K) – The light produced by these bulbs are intended to mimic daylight, but they have a very cool, blue-white appearance. This color temperature is most often used in retails stores, hospitals, and offices. These bulbs are great for task lighting in garages and work spaces, but can produce a bit of an institutional feel that isn’t well suited for most living areas of the home.

Paint Sheen Affects the Appearance of Color

The dramatic impact of lighting is exactly why I cringe every time I read a blog post where someone says, “this color is the perfect gray paint because it has no blue undertone,” but then they proceed to recommend a paint color with a strong yellow undertone. That paint color might be “perfect” for their house, but those same yellow undertones might not work at all in your home.

Likewise, I have a favorite gray paint that doesn’t look at all blue in my house with mostly south facing windows, but when I tested it in a client’s home with north facing windows, it looked downright baby blue.

Also, keep in mind that colors often don’t look accurate in photos – because of the lighting in the picture, the way the photo was edited, or the color settings on your phone or computer screen. So even if you find a photo of a gorgeous room with gray walls that you love, remember that the photo may not be an accurate representation of the paint color, let alone how it will look in your home. 

This is why it’s so important to pick your own paint colors, and below are some tips to help you do just that.

How to Pick the Right Gray Paint for YOUR Home

1. Always Look at the Paint Swatches In Your Own Home

Now that you know how lighting affects colors, you can see why it’s impossible to choose a paint color when you’re at the store.

Choose a Variety of Paint Swatches. Here’s where those recommendations from friends, bloggers, and magazines can come in handy. Grab paint swatches in each of these colors… just don’t stop there. Choose a wide variety of paint swatches and take them home before you start to narrow them down.

Pick Both Warm & Cool Swatches. Even if you think you already know that want a warm or a cool undertone, bring home samples on both sides of the spectrum. I’ve had lots of clients confident that they want a warm gray-beige or a cool greenish-gray, who end up picking something entirely different once they see them in their home.

Look at the Swatches In the Room You Plan to Paint. Once you get the swatches home, take them the room that you plan to paint. Look at them during the day with just natural light, and put a little star on the colors you think you like best.

Then look at all the swatches again at night and make another mark to indicate the those you like best under the artificial lighting in the room. Try to get it down to 4 or 5 swatches that you think have the most potential.

Don’t Look at the Colors in Isolation. In addition to comparing the color swatches to one another {which helps you to identify undertones}, make sure to also compare the color swatches to other items in the room to avoid undertone mismatches.

If you’re painting a bathroom for example, be sure to see how the various colors swatches look next to the tile, the countertop, or the cabinets. If you’re painting a living room, hold the color swatches up next to the couch, pillows, and/or rug. If you already have some gray elements in the room, you don’t have to choose a paint that’s an exact match, but you should avoid shades of gray that clash with one another.

Consider the Existing Finishes in the Room. Also take into consideration the color of wood floors, baseboards and door trim, or carpet. You need to consider whether you want to accentuate the existing color-tones or whether you want to use paint to balance out the these elements in the room.

For example, if you want to modernize a house that has lots of yellow or red-ish wood tones, consider choosing a cooler gray paint. Or if your house has modern elements that are a bit too stark for your taste, consider more of a warm greige (gray-beige) to give the space a cozier feel.

2. Buy Small Paint Samples of the Colors You are Interested In

After looking at lots of paint swatches in the room you plan to paint, and after narrowing it down to 4 or 5 colors you think have potential, you’re ready to buy some color samples. 

Each paint brand and store will be different, but purchase the smallest quantity you can of each paint color you have narrowed it down to.

My favorite local paint shop has an entire wall of 2 oz. sample bottles in almost every color in the Benjamin Moore paint deck.  The Sherwin-Williams paint shop in my area, however, does not offer samples like this, but they will mix a sample quart upon request. With many paint brands, you can also order color samples online for convenience, as long as you don’t mind waiting a few days.

One thing to keep in mind, however, is that these color samples {whether it’s the mini bottles or the sample quarts} will typically be mixed in a base that is different from the actual paint you will ultimately purchase. As a result, this sample will give you a very close representation to the final paint color, but the sheen of paint you ultimately choose will have an impact on how the color looks once it’s on your walls. {See the discussion above about how paint sheen impacts color.}

3. Create Paint Sample Boards

Once you have all of your color samples, you’re ready to create some sample boards. My local paint store sells thick, white sample boards, but white poster board (with a flat finish) or white foam core work just as well. 

Pain Multiple Coats, and Leave a White Border Around the Edges. To make it fast and easy, I use foam brushes to paint each of my sample boards. I paint at least two to three coats, and I leave about a one inch boarder of white around the edge of each sample board (very roughly – no measuring or straight lines. I then use a Sharpie to label the bottom corner of each sample board so I can keep track of the colors.

You might be asking, why spend time creating sample boards? Why not just paint the samples directly on the wall? There are two reasons why this is so important: (1) If you paint samples directly on the wall, the existing paint color under it and around it will affect how you perceive the new paint colors; (2) The lighting in the room will be different on each wall (which is addressed by step 4, below).  

• The affect of the paint color under your sample. If you’ve ever repainted a room, then you know that it can take several coats of paint to cover the old color. If you paint only a thin sample swatch on your walls to test the new colors, there’s a good chance that the existing color will show through a bit, affecting how the color looks. On the other hand if you paint several thick coats of your sample color in swatches on the wall, you run the risk of leaving ridges on the wall that will show up later when you go to repaint the whole room.

• The affect of the paint color around your sample. There’s an important color theory called metamerism, which basically {in very unscientific terms} means that your eyes will play tricks on you and see color differently based on what’s around it. In this case, if you paint a color sample directly on your wall, the way your eyes see that color sample will be psychologically impacted by the color immediately around it. To get the truest representation of the color, you need to see it against a white background, which is why I leave a white border around each of my sample boards.

4. Look at the Sample Boards at Different Times of the Day and on Different Walls 

Once your paint sample boards are ready, use painter’s tape to tape them up on the walls of the room you want to paint. Start by taping them all on the same wall {so that you’ll see them all in similar lighting}, and then look at them at different times of the day – in the morning light, midday, late afternoon, dusk, and at night under artificial lighting.

As I talked about above, the light in any given room will change dramatically throughout the day, and that natural and artificial light will affect the colors differently. This is why it’s so important not to just look at the samples once and make a decision.

Also remember that natural and artificial light will work together during certain times of the day, especially in the summer when dusk lasts a long time. Turn light bulbs on even during daylight hours to see what the paint colors look like.

Don’t forget that the shadows and light will be very different on different walls of your room. If you look at a sample board hanging on a wall opposite a window, for example, it will have a lot of direct light shining on it. If you hang the same sample board on a wall that doesn’t have any natural light shining on it (next to a window, for example, instead of across from it), you’ll notice that the color will look quite different.

5. Be Patient and Don’t Settle

I know this may seem overwhelming! There’s a reason that gray paint is so hard to pick, and a reason that so many people end up unhappy with their color choice. 


As much as I’d love to tell you that there’s one great shade of gray paint out there that looks good in every home, it’s just not the case, and it takes some leg work to pick the one you’ll like best in your home. 

No matter what color you choose, it’s appearance will change throughout the day. The goal is to choose a color that you love during the times of day you will us the room most frequently, while making sure you won’t hate the color for half of the day.

And don’t forget that you have some control over the light in the room. The window coverings you chose can help to soften overly-bright daytime light.

If you love the color of the paint during the day, but not under artificial lighting, you can always change the light bulbs to a different color temperature. Once you decide which light bulb color temperature you like best in the room, be sure to make a note of it so you can buy the same light bulbs next time!

While it can be really tempting to want to pick one color for the whole house, don’t assume that the same color will be perfect in every room. Your living room and bedroom windows might face opposite directions, for example. If you are painting more than one room, be sure to look at the sample boards in each different space. Even if you want the whole house to be painted in a neutral light gray, there’s no rule that says you have to pick the exact same shade of gray in every room (although I wouldn’t paint different shades for adjoining spaces, like a living room and kitchen).

If you go through the effort to create sample boards of four of five different paint colors, and still none of them are right, be patient and try again with different colors.

While paint is relatively inexpensive, and you can always repaint if you hate it, the time involved or the cost to hire a painter is significant. It’s much better to take the time to choose a color you have confidence in.

How to Pick a Paint Color with Confidence

While this article talks specifically about how to choose a gray paint, you can follow this  methodology to pick any paint color. The same principals about undertones and light will apply to any color you choose, and following each of the five steps above will help you to choose a paint you love for your home – no matter the color!

The post How to Choose the Perfect Gray Paint for YOUR Home appeared first on Blue i Style.

HOW LIGHTING AFFECTS INTERIOR DESIGN

When choosing a color palette, it’s important to keep in mind how the lighting of the space will affect the color.

I have helped a lot of friends and clients choose paint colors for their homes recently, and it reinforced for me just what a big impact lighting has on color. For example, the light gray paint color that looks great in my home, which has mostly south facing windows, took on an very baby blue hue when tested in a client’s house with lots of cool, northern light.

How to Choose a Color Scheme

COLOR PALETTE INSPIRATION: Blue Domes of Santorini

COLOR PALETTE INSPIRATION: Cape Town Bo Kaap District

COLOR PALETTE INSPIRATION: Beverly Hills

COLOR PALETTE INSPIRATION: Alhambra Tile

COLOR PALETTE INSPIRATION: Greek Sunset

COLOR PALETTE INSPIRATION: Granada, Spain

COLOR PALETTE INSPIRATION: Pink House

The post How Lighting Affects Interior Design & How to Choose a Color Scheme appeared first on Blue i Style.

A while back I wrote a post about how to use a Rust-Oleum Countertop Transformations Kit to DIY granite look countertops, but my tutorial was buried in the middle of a post about my upcycled bar cart, where you would probably never find it. The recent reader questions about kitchen updates made me realize that it was finally time to create a separate post about how to paint laminate countertops to look like granite.

This post contains affiliate links. If you purchase something I recommend, I may receive a small commission, but you’ll pay the same price.

I’d seen the Rustoleum Countertop Transformations Kit at my local hardware store, and I was super curious to try painting laminate countertops. It’s a multi-step process that creates the look of real granite, which sounded like a DIY dream come true! But I don’t have any laminate counters in my house, and I was hesitant to offer to try kitchen countertop paint in a friends house until I knew what kind of results I would get.

When I was asked to do some furniture makeovers for a display at the Denver Home Show, I realized it was a perfect opportunity to try some of the DIY products I’d had my eye on, including the Rustoleum countertop paint and dry erase paint.

At my local Habitat ReStore I found a laminate printer stand and decided to turn it into a rolling bar cart, complete with a granite-look countertop. I consulted with my friends at Rust-Oleum, and they confirmed that this laminate furniture surface would accept the paint just like a laminate kitchen counter. It was the perfect test case!

HOW MANY COUNTERTOP TRANSFORMATION KITS DO I NEED?

A large Rust-Oleum Countertop Transformations Kit is enough to cover 50 square feet, and a small kit covers up to 30 square feet. Since the top of my tiny bar cart was only a whopping 4 square feet, I didn’t come close to using the full kit. That being the case, I obviously can’t say that this is the most affordable solution for such a tiny countertop, but Rust-Oleum was kind enough to send me a kit to test it out.

While I wouldn’t recommend you buy the kit just for a small project like mine, it is a fantastic option to give an outdated kitchen or bathroom a brand new look! And then any leftovers are perfect for dressing up the laminate top of a bar cart, a portable kitchen island, or even a inexpensive laminate dresser.

The large Countertop Transformations Kit currently comes in four color options: charcoal {this is the one I used, and it’s black with gray and white flecks}, java stone (brown), dessert sand (tan with a few dark flecks), and onyx (black with dark gray flecks). The smaller kit currently only comes in charcoal and dessert sand. I haven’t seen all of the colors on finishes surfaces, but I can say that the charcoal, in person, looks very similar to the dark granite counters I had in my previous home.

I received my Countertop Transformations Kit for free, but was not paid for this post. All opinions are my own and based on my personal experience.

HOW TO USE A RUST-OLEUM COUNTERTOP TRANSFORMATIONS KIT

The Countertop Transformations Kit comes with lots of supplies, and it is a very specific, multi-step process. It comes with an instruction guide, as well as a short DVD tutorial.

It’s not difficult at all – but it’s very important to follow all of the instructions carefully! Below I share a step by step overview of the process to help you understand what is involved and to show you my results, but be sure to also read and follow all of the instructions from Rust-Oleum.

STEP 1: Repair and Clean

STEP 2: Rough Up the Surface

Start by roughing up the laminate surface using the diamond embedded sanding block that comes with the kit. Use both hands to press down on the sanding block, and sand in a fast, circular motion. Don’t forget to sand the front and side edges of the countertop as well.

This process creates a lot of very fine dust, so wearing protective eyewear and a dust mask is a good safety precaution.

STEP 3: Prep for Painting

Before moving on to the painting step, use painters tape to tape of any areas that won’t be painted. In a kitchen or bathroom, this would include around the edges of the sink and along the walls. Make sure to also cover up any drains to keep out the decorative chips that you’ll apply in step 6.

Use a plastic drop cloth and painter’s tape to cover the cabinet(s) below the countertop, and also cover any adjacent walls or backsplash tile. Layout a drop cloth on the floor below the counter as well.

STEP 4: Prepare the Decorative Paint Chips

STEP 5: Paint Adhesive Base Coat

Stir to mix the adhesive base coat, then pour some into a paint tray. Working in small, manageable sections, use a synthetic paint brush to paint the edges and backsplash of the counter, and use a dense foam roller to coat the larger surface areas of the countertop with the black adhesive base coat. Apply a thick, smooth coat, ensuring that none of the laminate surface shows through..

STEP 6: Spread the Decorative Color Chips

Spray the wetting agent over the adhesive painted surface to help keep the base coat wet and tacky longer. Get a nice, even coverage of the wetting agent, without making the surface too wet or creating any pools or puddles.

Working quickly, while the adhesive base coat remains wet, use the dispenser tool to spread the decorative color chips, heavily coating the entire counter surface.

The dispenser tool works like a fertilizer spreader – you just pull the trigger on the inside of the handle and turn the crank clockwise to make the decorative color chips shoot out of the front. This is definitely the most fun {and messiest} part of the process, but covering the floor in a large drop cloth makes cleanup much easier.

Start by applying the decorative chips to the backsplash and front edge of the countertop, and then to the flat surface area. More is more when it comes to applying the chips, so apply a thick coating and ensure that none of the adhesive base coat remains visible.

If the chips don’t stick to an area, simply use a sponge to dab on more adhesive base coat in that spot, and then immediately cover the spot with the decorative color chips.

STEP 7: Remove Excess Chips and Smooth

Let the countertop dry for at least 12, but not more than 24 hours, then use a shop vac with a brush attachment or a small hand broom to brush away all the loose, excess decorative chips.

STEP 8: Sand Until Smooth

Using the diamond embedded sanding block that came with the kit, sand the counter until it is extremely smooth, but be careful not too sand through all the chips. If you do wind up with any bare spots or gouges in the surface, again use a sponge to dab on more adhesive base coat in that spot, and then immediately cover the spot with the decorative color chips, allow it to dry and then repeat steps 7 and 8.

STEP 9: Apply the Protective Top Coat

Once the counter is totally smooth, you’re ready to apply the protective top coat, which is a two part formula. The instructions call for mixing all of the activator {part A} into the base {part B}. However, once mixed, the protective top coat must be used within 4 hours.

Since I had only used a small portion of the total Countertop Transformations Kit, I wanted to save the rest for another project in the future. That meant I couldn’t mix the entire protective coat all at once. Instead I calculated the ratio of Part A to Part B, and used a syringe to measure and mix just enough for sealing my small bar cart countertop.

Once the protective top coat is mixed, use a synthetic paint brush to paint the edges and backsplash of the counter, and use a dense foam roller to coat the larger surface areas of the countertop. Apply a thick, smooth coat. Once the entire counter is covered, lightly reroll the entire counter in one direction to ensure a smooth, even finish.

Allow to Dry Before Resuming Use

Be sure to keep the counters free from dust and dirt while the top coat is drying. Keep the widows in the room closed and ceiling fans off. Allow the top coat to dry for 4-6 hours (dry times will vary depending on your climate), then gently remove the painters tape, scoring along the edges before peeling the tape away to ensure that it doesn’t peel away any of the painted surface.

Then let the countertop dry for about 48 hours before resuming light use, such as sitting items on the counter that weigh less than 5 pounds. Allow the counters to dry for a full week before resuming regular use. Apply silicone caulk around the edges of the sink for a waterproof seal.

How to Clean Painted Countertops

Once your Countertop Transformations painted countertops have fully cured, you can clean them with a soft cloth and soapy water or gentle, non-abrasive cleaners. Avoid staining by cleaning up spills promptly, and use cutting boards and trivets to avoid scratching and the surface, just like you would with real stone.

Rust-Oleum also has an instructional video that you can watch online here.

The post Update Laminate Countertops With Paint Using Rustoleum Countertop Transformations appeared first on Blue i Style.

SUPPLIES FOR DISH SOAP RESIST PAINTING:

• Art canvas
• Acrylic Paint (matte finish)
• Paint Brushes
• Dawn Dish Soap
• Spray Paint (NOT spray lacquer)

RESIST PAINTING: STEP 1

TIP: HOW TO GET PAINT OFF YOUR HANDS

TIP: HOW TO CLEAN PAINT BRUSHES

It’s always best to clean paint off of your brushes while the paint is still wet. For wet paint, you’ll need nothing more than warm water and Dawn Dish Soap to get the brushes clean. This works for craft paint, latex, oil-based paint, and even stain. Not only is Dawn gentle on the bristles, it’s also gentle on your hands, unlike many harsh paint solvents.

If the paint on your brushes has dried completely, a stronger solvent may be necessary. Methods like acetone and rubbing alcohol can be effective on dried paint, but they will also dry out the bristles, which isn’t good for your brushes. After cleaning with solvents, you can counteract the drying effect by giving the brushes a final rinse in warm water with Dawn Dish Soap to moisturize the bristles. Rub the dish soap into the bristles, rinse the soap out, and then reshape the bristles so that they dry in the right position before storing them.

RESIST PAINTING: STEP 2

RESIST PAINTING: STEP 3

RESIST PAINTING: STEP 4

ENTER THE GOLDEN DUCK CONTEST:

What could be more fun than creating this simple art project with your kids? How about a VIP Wildlife Experience?!Dawn wants to show you the amazing things their wildlife partners do! To celebrate their 40th anniversary of helping save wildlife, they are hosting the first ever Golden Duck Contest. From now until 11:59:59pm ET on October 6, 2018, follow these steps to enter:

1. Visit your local Target and purchase a 40th Anniversary Bottle of Dawn Dish Soap (here’s a coupon!)
2. Take a photo of the full receipt
3. Submit the receipt photo here, and complete the registration form for a chance to win an exciting wildlife experience.

The winning families will be flown to Dawn’s wildlife partner locations for a behind-the-scenes look at how they are helping wildlife and the animals they save.

The post Clean Up After Painting: How to Clean Paint Brushes and Get Paint Off Hands appeared first on Blue i Style.

I did a lot of research regarding both paint storage and disposal options, and learned that we could recycle some of our leftover paint, as well as recycling all of our empty paint cans. Today I’m sharing all the findings of my research with some helpful tips for how to store leftover paint, how to dispose of leftover paint, and how to recycle paint cans.

HOW & WHERE TO STORE LEFTOVER PAINT

How to Store Latex Paint

• Transfer left-over paint to airtight containers.  Air is the enemy of latex paint.  Latex paint is water-based, and water-based paints contain ammonia. Ammonia vapor attacks the protective lining of paint cans, leading to rust that can damage paint. Transferring left-over paint to airtight plastic containers eliminates the rust problem, extending the life of the latex paint.

• If storing paint in the original cans, ensure a tight seal.  Wipe as much excess paint as possible off of the rim before closing the can.  Stretch a piece of plastic wrap over the rim before replacing the lid.  When replacing the lid, don’t hammer it in place, as this can dent the rim or lid allowing more air to enter.  Instead, put a piece of scrap wood on top of the lid then tap with a mallet to seal the lid back in place.  Avoid storing paint cans directly on a cement floor, as the bottom of the can will rust much faster on cement than on other surfaces.

• Store Paint Away from Extreme Temperatures.  Avoid storing paint in locations that are likely to get too hot or too cold.  Freezing temperatures are particularly damaging to latex paint, so avoid storing paint in an un-insulated garage or storage shed. If you must store paint in such locations, keep the paint on a shelf, and off any tile or concrete floors to avoid constant contact with the ground which will drop the temperature more quickly and lead to repeated freezing and thawing.  Extreme heat can also damage the pigments in latex paint, so avoid storing paint in areas that are likely to get too hot, such as near a furnace or water heater if the room is not temperature controlled.  (We are storing our latex paint in our utility room near our furnace and water heater, but the room is well ventilated and temperature controlled.)

• Determine if Paint is Still Good Before Using.  There is no set answer to how long you can store latex paint. The most important thing is to ensure that you paint is still good before using it. Paint separation can occur regardless of the quality of the paint and the paint storage method.  Color enhancers separate, but if the ingredients easily combine, and the paint does not show signs of livering (rubbery or coagulating), it may still be good.  Usable paint should be creamy and have no lumps.  After thoroughly mixing, if the paint remains lumpy, is too thick or too thin, or does not have a consistent color, it has likely gone bad.  If the paint has gone bad, read the tips below for proper disposal.

Storing Oil-Based Paint & Spray Paint Storage

• How to Determine if Paint is “Oil-Based.”  Oil-based paints include enamels, varnishes, shellacs, lacquers, stains and sealers.  After reading the label, or if the label is missing or illegible, treat paint as oil-based for the purposes of safe storage and proper disposal, as outlined below.

• Read Labels Closely.  Read the paint labels closely to determine whether each particular paint or paint product is flammable or combustible when determining where to safely store the paint.  In reading the labels of our paint cans, for example, we discovered that the magnetic primer (which we used when creating our chalkboard wall) is highly flammable.

• Store Oil-Based Paint and Spray Paint Away from Heat Sources and Open Flames.  It is unsafe to store oil-based paint, spray paint, or any other paints that are flammable or combustible, near any devise with a pilot light.  The vapors can ignite and cause a fire, a flashover or an explosion. Read about the creative and space saving solution to store and organize my spray paint cans.

PAINT & PAINT CAN DISPOSAL & RECYCLING TIPS

Look for Alternatives to Paint Disposal First

If you have good, unwanted paint, consider giving it to an organization that can use it, such as a local charity or community groups, a high school or community theater, or a Habitat for Humanity ReStore.

How to Properly Dispose of and Recycle Paint and Paint Cans

• Recycling Unused Liquid Latex Paint is the Best Option. There are numerous organizations that offer latex paint recycling.  In Colorado, a company called Green Sheen recycles liquid latex paint and reprocesses it into new colors of paint that are then resold at lower costs than new paint. Not only is this an environmentally friendly option, but it is also much more cost effective (Green Sheen charges only $3 per gallon) as compared to disposal at a Household Hazardous Waste site (a minimum of $15 in Denver) where the paint likely ends up permanently in a landfill. Green Sheen a drop-off site in central Denver, and will even pick up the paint from your home for a small fee. Some Ace Hardware store locations have also begun offering paint recycling, so check with your local store. Otherwise, do an internet search for paint recycling companies and sites in your area.

• If You are Unable to Locate a Paint Recycling Company in Your Area, You Must Ensure that the Paint is Disposed of Properly.  Many counties and states consider latex paint to be a hazardous material, requiring that excess latex paint be disposed of at designated Household Hazardous Waste (HHW) sites.  To find a HHW site near you, call you City Hall, check your city’s website, or check online at Earth911 and input the word paint and your zip code in the appropriate boxes.  If there is not a HHW site near you, then contact the regional EPA office responsible for your state or contact your state Department of Environmental Quality.  Keep in mind that disposal of paint at a HHW site is typically not free. Additionally, be aware that most of this paint is not recycled and ends up going into a hazardous material landfill.

• If Your County or State Does Not Consider Latex Paint to be a Household Hazardous Waste, You Must Make the Paint into a Solid Before Disposing of it in the Trash.  A dry product called “Paint Hardener” can be added to old cans of paint to make the paint hard and acceptable for disposal in the trash.  Paint Hardener, or Waste Paint Hardener, as it is sometimes called, is sold at most hardware and some home improvement stores. As an alternative to Paint Hardener, you can pour the unused latex paint into a container of non-flammable absorbent material, such as cat litter or sawdust and then allow it to dry.  This works best if the absorbent material is placed in the bottom of a container, then slowly pour in the paint while stirring.  Once combined, let it dry outside in warm weather, if possible, or in a well ventilated area.

• How to Recycle Paint Cans.  If left-over latex paint fills a paint can to a depth of about half an inch or less, dry the paint by leaving the lid off of the can and placing the can outdoors or in a well-ventilated area.  Once the paint is dry, the paint can can be recycled, however you must first confirm whether your at home recycling company will accept such cans.  In the City and County of Denver, cans with a minimal amount of dried paint are acceptable to be thrown in the trash, but are not accepted for recycling through the City’s at home recycling collection program.  As an alternative to throwing away my old paint cans, I contacted my local Green Sheen paint recycling company and learned that they would accept my paint cans for recycling free of charge – all I had to do was drop them off at their location. If the recycling company that picks up at your home won’t accept your empty latex paint cans for recycling, there is likely a paint recycling company in your area that will gladly take the cans off your hands.

• How to Dispose of Paint Cans.  If not deemed a Household Hazardous Waste in your area, you may be able to simply throw away your empty paint cans that contain less than one half inch of dried paint in the bottom.  Of course, recycling the cans is preferable where this is an option, but if you opt to throw away your empty cans, be sure to leave the lids off so that the trash collector knows what they are dealing with and can see that the cans are, in fact, empty.

How to Dispose of Oil-Based Paint and Oil-Based Paint Cans

• Oil-Based Paint Must be Specially Processed for Disposal.  Oil-based or alkyd based paints must be disposed of professionally because of their high VOC content and resultant flammability which can result in environmental problems if poured down the drain, into a storm drain, or disposed of in the regular trash.  You cannot dry the paint and dispose of it yourself as you may be able to do with latex paint.  Oil based paint must be specially processed for disposal, which requires making arrangements for them to be picked up by, or dropped off at, your local Household Hazardous Waste (HHW) facility.  To find a HHW site near you, call you City Hall, check your city’s website, or check online at Earth911 and input the word paint and your zip code in the appropriate boxes.  If there is not a HHW site near you, then contact the regional EPA office responsible for your state or contact your state Department of Environmental Quality.  Keep in mind that disposal of paint at a HHW site is typically not free.

• How to Recycle and Dispose of Oil-Based Paint Cans. Check with your local Household Hazardous Waste guidelines to determine if empty oil-based paint cans can be disposed of in the regular trash or whether they must also be treated as Household Hazardous Waste.  Many paint recycling companies accept only latex paint cans for recycling, but check with those in your area to determine if they are able to accept empty oil-based paint cans for recycling.

• When in Doubt, Treat as a Household Hazardous Waste. If you are unable to determine if can of paint is latex or oil-based after reading the label, or if the label is missing or illegible, treat the paint as oil-based for purposes of disposal.

How to Dispose of Spray Paint Cans

• Must be Disposed of as Household Hazardous Waste. For aerosol spray paint cans that still contain paint, follow the instructions on the product’s label.  If you cannot get the paint out because the nozzle is broken or missing, then it must be disposed of at a Household Hazardous Waste (HHW) site.  To find a HHW site near you, call you City Hall, check your city’s website, or check online at Earth911 and input the word paint and your zip code in the appropriate boxes.

• Disposing of or Recycling Empty Spray Paint Cans. Only if an aerosol spray paint can is completely empty can it be placed in the trash or recycled, although some counties and states may require that even empty cans be disposed of as Household Hazardous Waste (HHW).  If these cans are not deemed HHW in your area, confirm whether your city or recycling company accepts aerosol cans for recycling before placing them in your recycling bin.  If they are not permitted in your at home recycling bin, you should be able to located a recycling site near you that will accept aerosol cans.

• Never puncture, crush or incinerate spray paint cans.

These tips are based on my research, including from the following websites, where you can gain further information:  Absolute Painting; Do It Herself; NDHealth.gov; Denvergov.org; Ohio EPA; About.com Home Repair; The Daily Green.

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HOW TO ADD SHELVING TO A SMALL UTILITY ROOM

Ironically, after emptying all of our latex paints from their original cans into clear plastic canisters (read all about the how and why on that in this post), I determined that using empty paint cans would be an ideal way to store many of our other paint supplies. Rather than attempting to clean out old paint cans, many of which were rusty around the edges, I purchased new, empty paint cans. They sell them in a couple of sizes, and they’re very inexpensive. I started by sorting out all of my paint supplies, then began filling up the paint cans with all those items small enough to fit within them.

I printed simple labels that match the labels I created to note the paint brand, color, and sheen on the canisters of extra paint.

 

Click here to download this blank label template if you want to use these for your own paint supplies. Just use your favorite editing program to add in the text, or print them without text and hand write in what you need. I printed all of my labels on to glossy sticker paper, then it cut just inside the gray circle border, and stuck them directly onto the cans.

I filled the larger paint cans with different kinds of paint roller covers and foam roller covers, our paint edging tools with the refill edging pads, and with rolls of various widths of blue painter’s tape.

I used the smaller cans to hold our paint brushes and extra stir sticks.

Of course, some of our paint supplies were too big to fit into paint cans. For these, I used to some silver mesh bins that I already had around the house. One bin holds our drop cloths and rollers and a second bin holds our paint trays and paint tray liners, as well as extras of some of our supplies.

To label these bins, I again used the same label template and printed my labels onto glossy sticker paper, but this time I didn’t peel off the sticker backing. Instead, I just punched a hole through the top of each circle and used some ribbon to tie the labels on to the handle of each bin.

Three nails hammered into a stud keep additional paint supplies neatly organized.

 

The top nail holds the customized paint deck I made, which includes each of the colors of paint used throughout our house. Read all the details about this simple, DIY paint deck here.

Another nail in the same stud holds a clipboard with my paint reference charts and my paint organizing kit.

Finally, I put all of our can opening keys onto a book ring and hung them from another nail to make them quick and easy to find each time we have a new can of paint open. I honestly don’t know why we have so many, but they seem to go missing easily, so I’m keeping them all.

I used the top and bottom shelves in the utility room for the items that we will access the least frequently. Since Scott and I are both short, whatever went on the top shelf had to be lightweight and easy to maneuver. We decided that this was the perfect place to store all of our extra furnace filters, which weigh almost nothing.

The bottom shelf holds extra, empty canisters, which are ready to grab and go when we have new paint to transfer into them. On the floor, below the bottom shelf, we have stacked up extra tile from various projects around the house. There’s a lot of extra tile floating around in the garage, which I still need to move down to the utility room. But, it’s nice to now have one place that we can put all of this tile to be able to find it when we need it.

The post Small Utility Room Shelving Solution & the Best Way to Organize Paint Supplies appeared first on Blue i Style.

For years, we didn’t have any usable storage space in our utility room, so we were storing all these cans of paint in a very haphazard manner. Some leftover paint was stored on shelves in our detached garage, which was a bad idea since the garage is unheated and allowed the paint to get to cold in the summer (and probably to hot in the summer as well). And all the leftover cans from the builder were stacked up in boxes on the floor of our coat closet, which was definitely not the best use of that space!

I had been itching to get our paint situation under control, but I first needed a place to put it all.  We finally found a way to add shelving to our tiny utility room, so with those shelves in place, I was ready to embark on Project Paint Storage.  The first step was to gather all the paint into one place. Wow, that’s a lot of paint!

Once I saw how much paint we had, I realized that I needed to do something more than simply moving all the cans downstairs to our new utility room shelving, so I started doing some research {in blogland of course} to find alternate paint storage ideas.

I quickly learned that mason jars had become the favorite way to store leftover paint.  And while I can see the appeal, because the paint looks oh so pretty in those little jars, I knew that wasn’t the best solution for me for a couple of reasons. First, a standard size mason jar holds 16 ounces (or 1 pint), and the majority of my paint cans contained more than a pint. Second, I just don’t trust myself with glass when it comes to something that could be so devastatingly messy if the glass were to break.

This second concern was of particular concern to me because our new utility room shelves are attached to the studs, leaving a gap between the studs large enough for a mason jar to be pushed right off the back of the shelf where it would end up crashing down onto the cement floor.

But I liked the concept of transferring my paint to different containers, and I liked the idea of those containers being clear so that I could see the paint color and quantity within each. So I asked the internet, “Can you store leftover paint in a plastic container?” Turns out, the answer is yes! In fact, some paint brands have begun switching to plastic cans.  After a little shopping, I found the perfect plastic canisters! This post contains affiliate links. If  you buy something I recommend, you’ll pay the same price, but I may receive a small commission.

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In addition to being plastic, rather than glass, these canisters have several major advantages:
(1) they come in both 1 gallon and 2 quart sizes (ideal for the quantities of paint I need to store);
(2) they have screw tops that create a nice seal;
(3) their overall square shape allows them to be lined up side by side while taking up considerably less space than a standard round paint can;
(4) they have a great built in hand-grip that makes them easy to lift and pour with one hand;
(5) the canisters can easily be washed out and reused for a different color of paint in the future; and
(6) the price can’t be beat!

A few important notes:  I only transferred my latex (water based) paint into the plastic canisters. I have read that oil-based paint will eventually eat through plastic, so I don’t recommend storing oil-based paint in plastic canisters like these.  Since oil-based paints suffer the same woes from rusting cans, instead consider using glass to store leftover oil-based paints.  Additionally, I will only be storing my latex paint in the utility room. I have a detailed post where you can read about how to properly store and dispose of different kinds of paint, including latex, oil-based, and spray paint.

As I transferred all of our latex paint out of their original paint cans and into the plastic canisters, I needed to create labels for the canisters to capture all of the details, including the paint brand, color name, color number, and sheen. At the same time, I also created a paint reference chart to keep all the details in one place, as well as a simple custom paint deck that I could take with me shopping when matching decor to our paint colors.

Rather than printing pretty labels with all the paint details already included, I instead opted to create a simple label template upon which I could hand write the details. This was a forward thinking decision, because I know that, realistically, the next time I buy paint and transfer the leftovers to a canister, I won’t want to take the time to print out a custom label. Instead, I can print extra blank labels now and have them ready to write the details in and stick it to a canister when the time comes.

I printed my labels on glossy sticker paper, then, using the round border as a guide, I cut out the round labels just inside the black line.

And guess what?  I’m sharing this cute paint label template with you! Just click here to download the full-size (four labels per 8.5 x 11 inch) template as a JPG file and print your own labels. These labels are perfectly sized to fit the lids of the plastic canisters, but are also an ideal size for placing directly on the top of a paint can (more on that below).

Once my labels were cut and ready, it was time to start transferring paint.  At this point you may be asking yourself, “Why go to all this trouble? Why not just leave the paint in the original cans?”  They say a picture is worth a thousand words – so here is my best answer to that question:

Not only does it look gross, but that rusting can is certainly no good for the paint!  And that particular can of paint was not even very old.  If I were to leave all the paint in the original cans, the cans would continue to rust and ultimately ruin the paint. My online research indicates that their is really no good solution to stop cans from rusting, so transferring the paint to another, air-tight storage container will prolong the life of the paint. Read more about proper paint storage and how to determine if paint has gone bad.

When it came to actually transferring the paint from the cans to my plastic canisters, we sat each canister in a cardboard box to protect our kitchen counter from any drips or spills, then we simply poured the paint from one container to the other.

One by one we transferred the cans of paint into the canisters and labeled the top of each canister with a sticker indicating its contents, including the brand of paint, paint color, and sheen.  I peeled the backing off of the sticker paper and placed each label in the center of the canister lid, pressing down around the edge to create a good seal.

Alternatively, if you don’t have the time or desire to transfer all of your paint to new containers, you could place a sticker label directly on top of the paint can lid.  Often times, after we’ve poured paint into a paint tray several times, paint drips down the side of the can making it impossible to read the brand or paint color.  By placing a label on top of the can before storing it away, you wouldn’t later be guessing about the contents of the can.

Once all of my paint was transferred into the canisters, and all of the canister lids were labeled, I was thrilled with the results. Now a quick glance allows me to see the color of the contents and the approximate quantity. Best of all, however, is that my paint is no longer at danger of being ruined by rusting cans.

A comparison of the old paint cans to the new paint canisters lined up on a shelf in the utility room illustrates the efficiency of my new leftover paint storage solution.

Related Posts You May Find Helpful:
How to Properly Store, Dispose of, and Recycle Paint & Paint Cans
The Best Way to Organize Paint Supplies
How to Add Storage Shelving to a Utility RoomSpray Paint Storage & Organization

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Do you ever ask yourself, do I need to prime before paining this or is primer really necessary? I know I do! Back in law school I spent many hours painting a laminate bookshelf for my apartment, only to have the paint peel right off because I didn’t prime it first. I’m a much savvier DIYer now than I was back then, but I still find myself questioning when I need to use primer for projects around my house.

I asked my friends over at Rust-Oleum to recommend the right type of primer to use on new drywall and drywall compound in my bathroom, and they recommended Zinsser Bull’s Eye 1-2-3.

I used a brush to prime the small area of wall above the door and shower, and then used a roller to prime the ceiling.

Once the ceiling paint was dry, I used painters tape to prep the section of wall before touching up the charcoal gray paint. Some people have a steady enough hand to cut-in without tape, but I always spend the extra few minutes to tape before painting in order to get a nice, crisp paint line.

I’ve always found this bathroom to be a calming and relaxing space, and I’m so relieved that it’s finally been returned to its spa-like state. Future guests, start making your reservations now.

• applying too much paint that then runs and sags
• applying paint that starts to peel when you brush back over it
• having to put on 3-4 coats to cover stains
• being able to tell you put on 3-4 coats with a thick, uneven finish
• finished look is not the true color you were going for

So what about using a “paint with primer in one” product? These work best if you are painting the walls the same color, keeping the same paint sheen, and if the walls and existing paint are in good condition. But in most other situations, starting with primer will give you better results the first time. While paint and primers in one can seem to save you time, skipping the step of priming can lead to many DIY mishaps.

• Use primer to seal porous surfaces such as: 
  • builder’s flat paint, bare drywall, and spackled areas
  • stucco, concrete and masonry
  • raw wood
  • weathered aluminum
• Permanently block out odors and stains, preventing bleed through the topcoat: 
  • Tannin bleed, food and beverage stains
  • Knots and sap streaks
  • Graffiti, ink and crayon
• Hide dark colors and surfaces: 
  • Decorative colors and faux finishes
  • Panelling, wallcovering and borders
  • Stained cabinets

• Create a layer to which paint will adhere, such as glossy, hard-to-paint surfaces, without sanding: 
  • Finished woodwork, shelving
  • Old glossy paints, varnished trim
  • Laminate furniture
  • Glass, ceramic tile, decorative tile, formica
  • Vinyl siding, shutters
  • PVC piping, finished metals

• Best Tips & Tricks for Painting Any Space
• Spray Paint Organization
• Utility Room Paint Supply Storage & Organization
• Tips for Proper Paint Storage, Recycling, and Disposal
• How to Install Temporary, Removable Wallpaper

The post When and Why to Prime Before Painting appeared first on Blue i Style.

I bought a package of inexpensive, wood handled chip brushes and laid them out in different configurations. I decided I liked the v-shaped layout the best, so measured to space them evenly, and then used a pencil to mark the location of the wholes in the top of each paintbrush on the birch plywood.

We have quite the collection of extra screws, so we tested out a few sizes until we found one just small enough for the paint brushes to hang on them. Scott drilled small pilot holes at each pencil mark, to ensure the plywood wouldn’t crack, and then put in the screws, leaving them sitting out about the same distance as the depth of the paint brush handles.

With all the screws installed, I was ready to paint the plywood. I wanted a black background for my art so that the paint on the paint brushes would really pop. I used my favorite Rust-Oleum satin paint and primer.

I love the way the light bounces off of the metallic spray paint, which really accentuates the intricate details on the picture frame.

Once the stain on the paint brush handles was dry, I was ready to dip the brushes in paint. I wanted to use latex paint rather than acrylic craft paint, so I bought a bunch of mini Benjamin Moore paint sample bottles from my favorite paint store.

I poured a little of each color into the bottom of short, plastic cups with a wide enough bases for the paint brushes to fit easily inside.

I dipped each paint brush into a different color of paint, pressing down and bending the bristles from side to side to cover all but the very top of the bristles.

The biggest challenge of this entire art project was finding a way for the paint brushes to dry. I tried just sitting them on the edge of a counter with the bristles hanging off… but they were too top heavy. Instead, I grabbed a piece of Styrofoam from a recent delivery, and inserted extra pegs from our workbench pegboard. I angled them into the Styrofoam so that the paint brush hung at an outward angle which {mostly} prevented the wet paint from touching the Styrofoam.

You’ll find all of the organizational details in the first post below, as well as tutorials for all of the other projects in the links below.

Garage Organization Ideas	Metallic Garage Floor Finish
Nails & Screw Organization	Paint Chip Labels
DIY Wood Sign	Paint Chip Fridge – Coming Soon

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